Much awaited trip to Gir
I have had a bad luck in seeing a Tiger in the wild even after umpteen attempts at it and in various national parks across India. One thing I learnt early on Tiger is not just an animal but a representative of an Eco system which is home to mammals, birds and other organisms. If you have a keen eye you will see at least one or two unique things in every jungle visit. For eg. Corbett made me realize that jungles at such altitude can be homes to elephants, saw birds of various kinds at rajaji including hornbills...most memorable part of the trip being the stay at Wildbrooks, a beautiful valley greeted us at srisailam and crocodiles at sariska.
This time around I chose Lions at Gir, the only abode of the Asian lions. While the park is 1400 sq km in area the thriving population of lions is said to span 10000 sq km in Gujarat now. Enroute gir I stopped at a 34 sq km park at Velavadar which is a highly underrated national park, more about it later.
Let's come to Gir, the adventure starts early for a person without much clue about Sasan when a rugged forest road offers you a choice to travel just 12km vs 70km on a pucca road. We mustered courage to do the shorter route after seeing others and also because we were running with time crunch, our long booked safari was to start in some time. Btw on booking safaris...use www.girlion.in to prebook WITH ALL NAMES OF TRAVELERS, I booked the pass just in my name to block the safaris only to then do some hustling after reaching here. 15 safaris 3 times a day are offered as current booking. Like in every case only early morning or late evening safari are recommended.
So I had two pre booking, both of them for afternoon slot in a hot and arid Gir forest. Anyways, the safari began and I told the guide that we are here to spot everything possible so no chasing only the Lion. Golubhai our guide worked hard with us, as luck would have it not much bird life could be spotted. But then we had encounter with two. Male lions, both in their primes...both lazing in the afternoon Sun. And then comes the surprise the forest trackers are separate by a distance of just 20-30 mtr from these beasts. So I asked golubhai what this is?
His reply stunned us, the forest rangers are entrusted with the task of following lions on a daily basis, they need to communicate to the head office whether there is any danger to the lions because of injuries etc. This is very understandable however, the interesting part is they have to do this every day and entire day. And because they are so close to the lion they reported position is disclosed to the safari booking counter whose endeavor is to then allot zones to the tourists....looking for the lion! Now let me be honest I wanted my luck to turn...and spot the king of the jungle, but not at the cost of the thrill.
Now came the time that we decided to take the morning safari as everyone suggested that in MORNINGS LIONS ARE ACTIVE AND OFFER BEST SIGHTINGS. Again understandable, but the ask was to be in the queue for those coveted 15 passes as soon as possible and that soon ranged from 2 am to 4 am for a pass that will be offered not before 530 am. So we reached at 430 am assuming it's a slack period due to examinations across the country, and yes we were there before it got crowded...however we were the NUMBER 16!!!. so now we began negotiations that we be teamed up with someone ahead of us, ready to pay some fee etc. This is not the ideal way for me as I prefer to go alone in safaris and avoid conflicts of interest with unknown co-passengers. But I had no choice. When we reached the booking office...somehow we were in the first 15 but now for humanity sakes we adjusted with the guys who were ready to share ride with us. Thankfully it was a small family with the kid excited to the see the lion.
So this time I asked for a route with the lake...remember GIR has 8 routes, primarily 4 with another coming from the other side as in route 2 and 6 are the same. 4 and 7 are the same etc. Only route 2 the one we did the first day, and route 6 one we did the last day don't have a drive around the kamleshwar dam...dam infested with crocodiles. The sad part of the lake route....all the guides wait at the dam site for phone calls from trackers or from the office about the lions location...this is the sad story of GIR. In order to reward everyone with the lion sighting they go any length which also looks fabricated at times.
So when I asked for route 6 on last day I knew that there were lions on the route, everyone in the town knew about it...as they were in mating season and unlikely to move from the place selected for the alliance. Anyways when I asked for route 6 I asked golubhai the guide where will we spot the birds today..and he said 6.. So I requested for route 6. The guide Bhikubhai joined us...he was already instructed by Golubhai what we were looking for. So Bhikubhai bhai got into the act real soon....from owls to Eagles, to jackals to birds everything enroute the mating lions. We reached that place eventually..probably the last to arrive as every other car took over us while we were bird hunting.
At GIR remember the bookin for safari is essential and must not be delayed (same case with lion safaris in leading parks), you are almost guaranteed to see the lions as the institution is working towards it, if you see a forest ranger your chances get a boost. Route 2 and 6 are long and dusty, can be boring but it seems they are preferred by even the guides.
At GIR crocodiles and birds are aplenty just walk along the HIRAN river, people are gentle and no one tries to fleece you. AT GIR many guides just depend on mobiles to track lions....don't know whether that's a good strategy, overall GIR is a friendly place where even lions seem to be friendly and when you get talking to people here you will realize that no one is afraid of lions...they live in harmony.
At last...the CHAIWALLA opposite the Sinh Sadan booking office said a good bye to both of us and said HE BLESSED US BEFORE HANDfor the last safari...that it will be good.
Tadoba Tigers are next
I have had a bad luck in seeing a Tiger in the wild even after umpteen attempts at it and in various national parks across India. One thing I learnt early on Tiger is not just an animal but a representative of an Eco system which is home to mammals, birds and other organisms. If you have a keen eye you will see at least one or two unique things in every jungle visit. For eg. Corbett made me realize that jungles at such altitude can be homes to elephants, saw birds of various kinds at rajaji including hornbills...most memorable part of the trip being the stay at Wildbrooks, a beautiful valley greeted us at srisailam and crocodiles at sariska.
This time around I chose Lions at Gir, the only abode of the Asian lions. While the park is 1400 sq km in area the thriving population of lions is said to span 10000 sq km in Gujarat now. Enroute gir I stopped at a 34 sq km park at Velavadar which is a highly underrated national park, more about it later.
Let's come to Gir, the adventure starts early for a person without much clue about Sasan when a rugged forest road offers you a choice to travel just 12km vs 70km on a pucca road. We mustered courage to do the shorter route after seeing others and also because we were running with time crunch, our long booked safari was to start in some time. Btw on booking safaris...use www.girlion.in to prebook WITH ALL NAMES OF TRAVELERS, I booked the pass just in my name to block the safaris only to then do some hustling after reaching here. 15 safaris 3 times a day are offered as current booking. Like in every case only early morning or late evening safari are recommended.
So I had two pre booking, both of them for afternoon slot in a hot and arid Gir forest. Anyways, the safari began and I told the guide that we are here to spot everything possible so no chasing only the Lion. Golubhai our guide worked hard with us, as luck would have it not much bird life could be spotted. But then we had encounter with two. Male lions, both in their primes...both lazing in the afternoon Sun. And then comes the surprise the forest trackers are separate by a distance of just 20-30 mtr from these beasts. So I asked golubhai what this is?
His reply stunned us, the forest rangers are entrusted with the task of following lions on a daily basis, they need to communicate to the head office whether there is any danger to the lions because of injuries etc. This is very understandable however, the interesting part is they have to do this every day and entire day. And because they are so close to the lion they reported position is disclosed to the safari booking counter whose endeavor is to then allot zones to the tourists....looking for the lion! Now let me be honest I wanted my luck to turn...and spot the king of the jungle, but not at the cost of the thrill.
Now came the time that we decided to take the morning safari as everyone suggested that in MORNINGS LIONS ARE ACTIVE AND OFFER BEST SIGHTINGS. Again understandable, but the ask was to be in the queue for those coveted 15 passes as soon as possible and that soon ranged from 2 am to 4 am for a pass that will be offered not before 530 am. So we reached at 430 am assuming it's a slack period due to examinations across the country, and yes we were there before it got crowded...however we were the NUMBER 16!!!. so now we began negotiations that we be teamed up with someone ahead of us, ready to pay some fee etc. This is not the ideal way for me as I prefer to go alone in safaris and avoid conflicts of interest with unknown co-passengers. But I had no choice. When we reached the booking office...somehow we were in the first 15 but now for humanity sakes we adjusted with the guys who were ready to share ride with us. Thankfully it was a small family with the kid excited to the see the lion.
So this time I asked for a route with the lake...remember GIR has 8 routes, primarily 4 with another coming from the other side as in route 2 and 6 are the same. 4 and 7 are the same etc. Only route 2 the one we did the first day, and route 6 one we did the last day don't have a drive around the kamleshwar dam...dam infested with crocodiles. The sad part of the lake route....all the guides wait at the dam site for phone calls from trackers or from the office about the lions location...this is the sad story of GIR. In order to reward everyone with the lion sighting they go any length which also looks fabricated at times.
So when I asked for route 6 on last day I knew that there were lions on the route, everyone in the town knew about it...as they were in mating season and unlikely to move from the place selected for the alliance. Anyways when I asked for route 6 I asked golubhai the guide where will we spot the birds today..and he said 6.. So I requested for route 6. The guide Bhikubhai joined us...he was already instructed by Golubhai what we were looking for. So Bhikubhai bhai got into the act real soon....from owls to Eagles, to jackals to birds everything enroute the mating lions. We reached that place eventually..probably the last to arrive as every other car took over us while we were bird hunting.
At GIR remember the bookin for safari is essential and must not be delayed (same case with lion safaris in leading parks), you are almost guaranteed to see the lions as the institution is working towards it, if you see a forest ranger your chances get a boost. Route 2 and 6 are long and dusty, can be boring but it seems they are preferred by even the guides.
At GIR crocodiles and birds are aplenty just walk along the HIRAN river, people are gentle and no one tries to fleece you. AT GIR many guides just depend on mobiles to track lions....don't know whether that's a good strategy, overall GIR is a friendly place where even lions seem to be friendly and when you get talking to people here you will realize that no one is afraid of lions...they live in harmony.
At last...the CHAIWALLA opposite the Sinh Sadan booking office said a good bye to both of us and said HE BLESSED US BEFORE HANDfor the last safari...that it will be good.
Tadoba Tigers are next
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